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Indian Spices: A Practical Guide

Indian Spices: A Practical Guide

By Nomisto Kitchen · Updated

IN SHORT

Most Indian cooking uses about twenty spices, and heat plus timing matters more than the list. Add whole seeds to hot fat for seconds, cook ground spices with a splash of water for under a minute, and add garam masala at the end. Buy small amounts, store them airtight and away from light, and replace ground spices within a year.

Which spices do you actually need?

A new cook can feel they need fifty jars. In practice, a working North Indian kitchen runs on a short core, and a South Indian one adds a few more. Start with seven: cumin seeds, coriander seeds (or ground coriander), turmeric, Kashmiri chilli powder, black pepper, green cardamom and garam masala. That covers the Punjabi chicken curry, egg bhurji and most dal and vegetable dishes.

Add mustard seeds, curry leaves, dried red chillies and asafoetida when you want to cook the South and West Indian dishes on this site, such as rava upma and Maharashtrian kanda poha. Cinnamon, cloves, bay leaf and black cardamom come in for rice dishes and slow curries, like the mutton yakhni pulao.

Two other things are worth knowing before you buy. First, “spice” and “heat” are not the same thing: most of the list below adds aroma, colour or earthiness, and only chilli and black pepper bring real heat. Second, a spice is a dried plant part, so its character fades with time. Fresh, small purchases beat a large, old jar every time.

What are the core spices and how are they used?

The table below covers the spices used across this site. “How to use” gives the standard approach; timings are guides, so go by the aroma and colour cues.

Spice Flavour How to use Typical dishes here
Cumin seeds (jeera) Warm, earthy, nutty Fry whole in hot ghee or oil for 15 to 20 seconds until darker and fragrant Punjabi chicken curry, egg bhurji
Coriander seeds (dhania) Citrusy, mild, slightly floral Buy whole and toast, or use ground in the masala base Curry bases, yakhni stock
Turmeric (haldi), ground Earthy, slightly bitter, strong yellow Cook in oil for 30 seconds so the raw taste goes Kanda poha, most curries
Kashmiri chilli powder Mild heat, deep red colour Add with ground spices; scorches quickly Curries, paneer tikka
Red chilli powder (regular) Sharp, hot Use sparingly; start with a quarter of the amount of Kashmiri Spicy curries and snacks
Black pepper Pungent, woody heat Crush fresh, or add whole to stock Yakhni, anda paratha
Mustard seeds (rai) Sharp, nutty once popped Add to hot oil until they pop, 15 to 30 seconds Upma, poha, sambar
Fenugreek seeds (methi) Bitter, maple-like Use a pinch; fry briefly or soak Idli batter, sambar powder
Kasuri methi (dried leaves) Savoury, slightly bitter Crush between palms and add at the end Chicken curry, paneer tikka
Fennel seeds (saunf) Sweet, anise-like Whole in stock or toasted into masalas Yakhni, some garam masala blends
Ajwain (carom seeds) Thyme-like, sharp Add to batters or hot oil; a little goes far Besan batters, pakoras
Asafoetida (hing) Savoury, onion-garlic-like A pinch in hot oil for 5 seconds Dals, sambar
Green cardamom Sweet, floral, camphor-like Crack pods whole for stocks; grind seeds for sweets Mango lassi, rice kheer, yakhni
Black cardamom Smoky, resinous Use one pod whole in savoury dishes only Pulao, slow curries
Cinnamon / cassia Sweet, warm Use a short stick whole in hot fat or stock Pulao, lamb curry
Cloves Intense, numbing, sweet Use 2 to 4 whole; strong enough to dominate Pulao, garam masala
Bay leaf (tej patta) Mild, cinnamon-like Add whole to stocks and rice; remove before serving Pulao, lamb curry
Curry leaves Citrusy, savoury, slightly smoky Add fresh to hot oil for 10 seconds; stand back Upma, poha, meal prep
Amchur (dried mango powder) Sour, fruity Add near the end for tang Chaat, stuffed breads
Garam masala Warm, sweet, aromatic A teaspoon added in the last 2 minutes Most North Indian curries

Curry leaves are a fresh herb rather than a spice, but they sit in the same tempering step, so they live here.

Whole or ground: which is better?

Whole spices protect their volatile oils inside the seed or bark. Once ground, the surface area explodes and the aroma fades in months, not years. That is the whole argument for buying whole cumin, coriander, black pepper and cardamom and grinding small amounts in a cheap blade grinder kept for spices.

Ground is the better choice for turmeric, chilli powder and sometimes ground coriander, because they are hard to grind well at home and are used in sizeable amounts. Buy them in packs that you will finish in a few months, and look for a vivid colour: dull, brownish chilli powder or pale turmeric is old.

Whole and ground are not interchangeable one-to-one, and freshly ground spice is usually stronger than old pre-ground, so start with a little less and taste once the dish is simmering.

What is tadka (tempering) and how is it done?

Tadka is the technique that most defines the flavour of Indian home cooking. It means heating fat, frying whole spices (and sometimes dals, curry leaves or garlic) in it for seconds, and then either starting the dish in that fat or pouring the sizzling mixture over a finished dal, raita or chutney.

Fat is the carrier. Many of the flavour compounds in spices dissolve in oil but not in water, so frying them briefly in ghee or oil spreads the flavour through the whole dish. Water-based cooking alone leaves much of it behind.

The sequence matters, because each ingredient scorches at a different speed:

  1. Heat the fat over medium heat until a seed dropped in sizzles at once.
  2. Mustard seeds first, if the recipe uses them. Wait for the popping to slow, 15 to 30 seconds. They scorch fast, so lift the pan if they darken.
  3. Dals next (chana dal, then urad dal), if used, for about a minute until golden, as in rava upma.
  4. Cumin seeds, which need only 15 to 20 seconds. In dishes that skip mustard, cumin goes in first.
  5. Dried red chillies, curry leaves and green chillies for 10 to 20 seconds, standing back from the spatter.
  6. Hing can go in with or just before step 5; a pinch for a few seconds.
  7. Onions or the main ingredient go in straight away to stop the spices cooking further.

For a dal tadka made as a finishing step, heat ghee in a small pan, fry cumin, dried chilli and garlic for 20 to 30 seconds, then pour it over the dal and cover for a minute so the aroma settles.

When should you add each spice?

Think in three stages.

Stage one, whole spices in fat (the first 30 seconds). Cumin, mustard, cardamom, cloves, cinnamon, bay and dried chillies. They flavour the oil that every other ingredient will cook in.

Stage two, ground spices in the masala (the middle). Turmeric, coriander, Kashmiri chilli and ground cumin go in after the onions, ginger and garlic have cooked, and before the tomatoes. Keep the heat at medium-low, stir for 30 seconds, and add a tablespoon or two of water if they start to catch. This is the same order the bhuna masala guide uses. Cooking them in oil removes the raw, dusty taste. Cooking them dry, or too long, makes them bitter.

Stage three, finishers (the last 2 minutes). Garam masala, kasuri methi, amchur, chaat masala, fresh coriander and lemon juice. Their aromatics are delicate and evaporate with long cooking, so they go in at the end.

How do you toast, bloom and grind spices?

Three simple techniques cover almost every case.

Dry toasting takes whole spices in a dry pan over medium-low heat for 1 to 3 minutes, shaking constantly, until they darken by a shade and smell strongly. Cumin and coriander seeds are usually ready when you can smell them from a step away. Tip them straight onto a plate to cool, because they keep cooking in the hot pan. Let them cool fully before grinding, or the powder clumps from the residual heat and oil.

Blooming in fat is the tadka stage above: spices in hot oil for seconds.

Grinding works best in small batches. Use a spice grinder or a mortar and pestle, and pulse until it is a fine powder. Sieve out the husk fragments if you want a very smooth masala. Wipe the grinder with a dry paper towel afterwards, or grind a spoonful of rice to clean it.

What is a good garam masala recipe to make at home?

Garam masala means “warm spice blend”, and every household and region has its own. This version is a Punjabi-leaning, mildly sweet blend that works with the curries on this site. It is a starting point, not the definitive recipe.

Spice Weight
Cumin seeds 10 g
Coriander seeds 15 g
Black peppercorns 5 g
Green cardamom seeds (from about 12 pods) 2 g
Black cardamom seeds (from 1 large pod) 1 g
Cinnamon or cassia stick, broken 6 g
Whole cloves 3 g (about 30)
Bay leaf, torn 1 small leaf
Mace blade or a pinch of grated nutmeg (optional) 0.5 g
  1. Warm a dry pan over medium-low heat. Add the cumin, coriander, peppercorns, cardamom, cinnamon, cloves and bay leaf.
  2. Toast, shaking the pan, for about 2 minutes, until the colour deepens slightly and the smell turns sweet and strong. Do not let them smoke.
  3. Tip onto a plate and cool completely, about 10 minutes. Add the mace or nutmeg if using.
  4. Grind to a fine powder. This makes about 40 g.
  5. Store in a small airtight jar, away from light.

Use about 1 teaspoon (2 g) for a dish serving four, stirred in at the end. It will be at its best for around three months. After that it still works but tastes duller, so make small batches.

How should you store spices and how long do they last?

Heat, light, air and moisture are the enemies. Store spices in airtight jars in a cool, dark cupboard away from the hob, not on a rack above it. Always use a dry spoon, because steam and damp fingers invite clumping and mould.

Type Approximate good-flavour life Notes
Whole spices Around 2 years Cinnamon, cloves and cardamom keep longest in the pod or stick
Ground spices 6 to 12 months Chilli and turmeric lose colour first
Homemade garam masala About 3 months Make small batches
Hing 1 to 2 years Keep tightly sealed, as the smell travels
Curry leaves 1 week in the fridge; can be frozen Dried leaves have little flavour
Kasuri methi About a year Crush before use to revive it

Those periods are rules of thumb rather than a safety limit: old spices are usually safe, just weak. The test is simple: rub a pinch between your fingers and smell it. If it is faint, use more or replace it.

When buying, choose shops with high turnover, such as Indian grocers, where stock moves quickly. Prefer small packs. Mark the date on the jar when you open it.

What are the most common mistakes with Indian spices?

  • Burning the tadka. Mustard seeds and chilli blacken in seconds. Lift the pan off the heat, and add the next ingredient promptly.
  • Cooking ground spices in a dry, hot pan. They turn bitter. Keep the heat medium-low and add a little water when the pan dries.
  • Adding garam masala too early. Its aroma goes with long cooking. Stir it in at the end.
  • Using too much of strong spices. Cloves, black cardamom, fenugreek seeds and hing are powerful. A pinch to a few pieces is enough.
  • Using old spices and compensating with quantity. More of a stale spice just adds dust. Replace it.
  • Skipping the salt. Salt brings out spice flavour. Season in stages, tasting as you go.
  • Not letting the base cook. A masala that is under-cooked tastes raw however many spices you add. Cook until the oil separates.

Which spices are allergens, and what should you check?

Mustard is a recognised allergen in many countries, including the UK and EU, and is a base ingredient for tempering across South India. If you cook for someone with a mustard allergy, replace mustard seeds with cumin seeds, avoid mustard oil, and check that masala blends and pickles do not contain mustard.

Asafoetida (hing) is commonly sold compounded with wheat flour, so it can contain gluten. Look for a rice-flour or gluten-free label if that matters. Some commercial spice blends also contain anti-caking agents, flour or nut-derived ingredients, so check labels on pre-mixed products such as curry powder and chaat masala.

Whole spices from different suppliers can share a facility with nuts, sesame or other allergens. If someone you cook for has a severe allergy, check the packaging for allergen statements rather than assuming.

What should you cook next?

Start with the curry base (bhuna masala) guide to see how ground spices work inside a masala, and the pantry essentials guide for the rest of what to stock. Then cook the Punjabi chicken curry or kanda poha for a first full run through the techniques above.

Cook it

Frequently asked questions

Should I buy whole or ground spices?

Whole spices keep their flavour much longer, so buy whole cumin, coriander, black pepper and cardamom if you cook often and can grind them yourself. Ground turmeric, chilli powder and ground coriander are fine to buy ready-made, in small packs you will use within a year.

What is the difference between tadka and tempering?

They are the same technique under two names. Tadka or chhaunk (Hindi), baghar (Urdu), popu (Telugu), oggarane (Kannada) and thalippu (Tamil) are all the same technique, which English calls tempering. It means heating fat, frying whole spices in it for seconds, and pouring the result over a dish or using it as the start of one.

Why do my spices taste bitter or burnt?

Spices scorch fast. Mustard seeds, ground chilli and ground coriander turn bitter within seconds on high heat. Take the pan off the heat when seeds darken, keep ground spices on medium-low, and add a tablespoon of water if the pan looks dry.

What is the difference between garam masala and chaat masala?

Garam masala is a warm, aromatic finishing blend added at the end of cooking curries. Chaat masala is a tangy, salty blend that usually includes amchur (dried mango powder) and black salt, sprinkled over snacks, fruit and fried foods such as pakoras just before eating. They are not interchangeable.

Is asafoetida (hing) gluten-free?

Often not. Many commercial hing products are compounded with wheat flour, though rice-flour and pure resin versions exist. Check the label if you avoid gluten, and use a pinch only, as it is very strong.

Can I use curry powder instead?

Curry powder is a Western blend rather than a traditional Indian one, and it tastes different from cooking with separate spices. It will work in a pinch in a simple dish, but it will not give the layered flavour of cumin, coriander, turmeric and chilli added at different stages.